Page 80 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT

direction has higher tear strength compared to any
equivalent plain woven fabrics having similar areal
density. (Fig 5) Shows the design, draft and lifting
plan of warp rib structure:

4 Denting: During weaving warp ends are spaced out
across the width of the warp sheet according to the
desired density by wire reeds. The denting order
frequently used being 2, 3 or 4 ends per dent across
the width.
5 Weaves: A great variety of textiles manufactured
today are a combination of the following basic weaves
namely, the plain weave, twill weaves and sateen (or) 2 Weft rib: In a weft rib weave the plain marks (x)
satin weave. notation (indicating warp-up) is extended for one
additional end i.e two or more warp ends weave
6 Plain weave: Plain weave is used to a greater extent together as one. With the weft picks floating over
than any other weave. It is the most common weave two ends the weft ribs become distinct in the weft
used in light, medium and high weight fabrics such as direction of the fabric. As the warp yarn undergoes
the muslin’s, poplin’s, cambric’s and other sheeting’s. more number of interlacements compared to the weft,
It is the simplest weave repeating on two ends and the warp crimp is higher than the weft crimp. Further,
two picks (filling) yarns. Each warp yarn passes due to the nature of interlacement, the weft direction
alternately above and below each weft yarn similarly, has higher tear strength compared to any equivalent
each weft yarn passes alternately above and below plain woven fabrics having similar areal density.
warp yarn. This weave has the maximum number of (Fig 6) Shows the design, draft and lifting plan of weft
interlacements, compared to other weaves; hence rib structure:
the fabric becomes very firm and strong. Further, the
crimp of the yarn is this weave is also higher than
other weaves. Plain weave interlacements are shown
on point paper in Fig 4. Plain fabric can be produced
on a weaving machine (loom) with two heald shafts.

Plain weave derivatives
In the plain weave derivatives, the plain notations are
extended in warp, weft of both in warp and weft directions,
namely warp rib, weft rib and matt or basket weave. 3 Matt weave: In a matt weave, the plain weave marks
All plain weave derivatives can be produced using two are extended both in the warp as well as weft direction
heald shafts. i.e. tow of more warp ends and two or more weft picks
weave as one, With the warp end floating over two
1 Warp rib: In a warp rib weave the plain marks (x) picks and the weft ends floating over two ends the
notation (indicating warp-up) is extended for one minimum number of ends and picks required for the
additional pick in a group i.e two or more picks are formation of matt weave is 2 x 2. Further, due to the
inserted in the same shed. With the warp ends floating nature of interlacement, the tear strength is higher
over two picks the warp ribs become distinct in the in both the directions compared to any equivalent
warp direction of the fabric. As the weft yarn undergoes plain woven fabrics having similar areal density.
more number of interlacements compared to the warp (Fig 7) Shows the design, draft and lifting plan of weft
ends, the weft crimp is higher than the warp crimp. rib structure:
Further, due to the nature of interlacement, the warp

70 Textile & Handloom: Shawl Weaving Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.5.40-42